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Izumo: A Journey Into Japan’s Spiritual Heart

A quiet serenity greets the visitor at Izumo Station, which faces a crisscross of leisurely streets lined neatly with cafes, home-grown pottery shops, and unimposing buildings. Polite school children eating snacks giggle and mingle with an elderly population going about their daily chores. The distinct simplicity of the town is a far cry from the immensely popular Kyoto, Japan’s first capital in 794 and home to historical palaces, majestic temples, and Zen gardens.

In contrast, a visit to Izumo is about learning Japan’s spiritual legacy. Located in Shimane Prefecture on the west coast of the country and facing the Japan Sea, the town is famous for the Izumo Taisha, a classical Shinto Shrine and home to a myriad of gods. According to Japanese folklore, the Sun God or Amaterasu blessed the Japanese islands and chose Izumo as the control tower. To celebrate this lofty identity, thousands of people descend upon the town’s Grand Taisha or shrine, which is nestled in a green landscape of ancient, tall cedar trees. Visitors offer prayers for good fortune or hold marriage ceremonies.

There is no official record of the origins of the shrine, which is composed of several ancient wooden buildings that have been regularly rebuilt over the centuries following tradition. Major festivals are held at the beginning of January and in May when people gather to watch parades displaying luxurious domes that carry the symbols of the gods. Hundreds of heavy wooden structures are carried by devotees through the night to mark the unique spirituality of Izumo.

A visit to the blue ocean is also a ritual closely followed by visitors. Special shrines placed on rocks are designated as blessed areas on the beach. Holding shovels or using their hands, visitors scoop up bits of sand that are collected in small sacred silk pouches to be taken to their homes and placed in special areas such as entrances for good luck.

Enjoying local food is also an important experience. Given its close proximity to the ocean, fresh sea food is delicious. Try the sushi-vinegar rice topped with rare species such as wild mackerel, slightly roasted for fragrance, or other types of shellfish. The local sake or rice wine is also popular, and green tea is served with Japanese sweets made of red soybeans. The menu can be enjoyed at local restaurants and is not as expensive in comparison to more popular tourist destinations. Staff at local hotels are friendly and the hotels often have hot springs with alkaline, slightly salty water containing hundreds of minerals. - Suvendrini Kakuchi

(Article cover photo: A serene walk through the lush greenery of the Izumo Taisha path | Florenda Corpuz)