By Florenda Corpuz
Nestled beneath the Fukutoku Shrine in Tokyo’s bustling Nihonbashi business district is Suigian, an innovative theater-style restaurant and lounge that offers a dining experience steeped in Japan’s culinary and cultural heritage.
We interviewed Hidetomo Kimura, the visionary owner of Suigian, to explore its rich history, guiding philosophy, and commitment to preserving tradition in a rapidly modernizing world.
Hidetomo Kimura, the visionary owner of Suigian
What inspired you to establish Suigian, and how did your background as a world-renowned artist influence this decision?
I originally opened Suigian to coincide with the Tokyo 2020 Olympics and to introduce authentic Japanese culture to people from around the world. Through my work as an artist, I have been collaborating with traditional Japanese crafts and industries. However, as I have deepened my connection with the intangible aspects of traditional arts, I have gained a broader and more profound understanding of the spirit of Japan than I could have ever gained on my own.
Can you explain the concept behind Suigian’s tagline, “Enjoy authentic Japanese culture with the essence of 72 beautiful Japanese seasons”? How do you incorporate these micro-seasons into the dining and cultural experience?
I was born and raised in Tokyo, but when I moved to Kyoto as an artist, I discovered that time in Japan flows through 72 micro-seasons, reflected in both nature and culture. While the four main seasons are now standard, ancient Japan divided spring, summer, fall, and winter into 24 seasons, which were further divided into three smaller seasons of about five days each, creating the 72 micro-seasons. These 24 seasons and 72 micro-seasons have since become the foundation for the expressions in my work. The seasons are something we experience in our daily lives, but at Suigian, we aim to offer guests a glimpse of these micro-seasons in various ways, allowing them to not only experience them but also take home this knowledge.
What role do you see Suigian playing in the preservation and promotion of traditional Japanese culture?
Today, unfortunately, the inheritance of traditional culture faces many challenges. It often cannot survive without support and subsidies. Suigian’s role is to serve as a case study for passing traditional culture to the next generation through economic independence, combining appropriate changes with the times while adhering to essential rules that must be followed.
What has been the reaction from visitors, both local and international, to the cultural experiences provided at Suigian?
The feedback from those who have experienced Suigian has been overwhelmingly positive. However, I find it challenging to differentiate Suigian from non-authentic Japanese cultural imitations before guests visit, as such imitations are widespread around the world.
Can you talk about the philosophy behind Suigian’s menu, and how it reflects traditional Japanese culinary practices?
We use seasonal ingredients, incorporating events and rituals from each season. We also use dishes that are 100 years old, from the Edo, Meiji, and Taisho periods, and serve food beautifully with them. I believe that the combination of these makes it possible for us to feel what we cannot see in today’s too-convenient daily life.
How do the six different course menus align with the changing seasons, and how does Suigian source ingredients to maintain this connection?
The concept of seasons does not differ from course to course. Ingredients are procured from the market through detailed daily contact. Some items are bought directly from producers without going through the market, and we often visit sake breweries and local markets throughout each region of Japan.
What are your future plans for Suigian? Are there any upcoming events or new additions that guests should look forward to?
Currently, we are developing programs that combine tradition and innovation, such as Techno and Noh, or Jazz and Noh, mainly in the nightlife scene. We have been seeing positive results and would like to continue developing these.
As an artist and a cultural curator, how do you personally stay inspired, and what other traditional Japanese cultural elements would you like to explore through Suigian?
Every day is a learning experience. We aim to evolve Suigian into a place where people can not only watch but also learn.
What advice would you give to others who wish to preserve and promote traditional Japanese culture in a modern context?
Don’t just see the surface of things; understand the essence and seek evolution, not change.
Finally, what do you hope every guest takes away from their experience at Suigian?
The beauty of Japan and its spirit.
